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2006 Bordeaux futures, En
Primeur wines
Wine traders, negociants, wine
critics |
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The Bordeaux futures organization
Description of Bordeaux's wine trade system |
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The Bordeaux "En Primeur" system
François Mauss, April 2007
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While
the Champagne region indisputably is the French viticultural
area which, by far, has the most effective marketing system and
the best control of its own image, Bordeaux on its side
established
a successful and unique
sales organization called the
"Trade" (Negoce in French).
Historically our English friends, followed by the Dutchs
and the Germans did set up this particular organization:
the wineries (or chateaux) produce the wine and the trade
organization sells it. I will briefly and schematically recall
the dual process of the Bordeaux futures organization.
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Every year in March, traders taste "en primeur" wines
of the most important chateaux, mainly those who have a
true
international sales potential. Their assessments, comments and
scores are the primary elements for the chateaux to set
a possible "initial offering price" for the vintage. In order to
possibly increase their prices at a later stage, the wineries
often apply a "tranches" system as they only initially
sell a portion of the volume of wine produced. Depending of the success
of the first tranche's allotment, they
can adjust the price for the
following tranches accordingly.
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Benefits and disadvantages of the current trading system:
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Benefits:
- the chateaux do not have to support an expensive sales
network
- properties remain close to the Trading houses
and
benefit from the trader's international reputation and
banking facilities. Financial risks are therefore reduced
- the chateaux receive important amounts in cash while the
wine is still stored
in their cellars befpre delivery 6 to 18 months later,
depending of the length of the breeding.
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Disadvantages: - the
chateaux know very little of their final clients and it
often is
a real issue for them - according to:
a. the wine's final quality
b. the Trade organization's power of negotiation
or
c. the reputation of the vintage,
in reality
it happens that it is the trade that
effectively sets the rules and fixes the prices. And
chateaux owners can only accept this
way of dealing as they have a complete lack of any other relevant sales alternative
in order to market their wines
efficiently.
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The trading system has to adapt to a changing world
As
usual, the points mentioned above should be tempered by the fact
that the test of strength between wineries and traders
is more than ever changing. Recently one could see disgruntled
chateaux owners promptly reintegrate the system only shortly after
attempting to leave it, as they often had to face informal
banning from the industry. Several studies have been published
on this topic and most amateurs have heard about Trading houses
such as Johnston, Mähler-Besse, Cordier and more recently,
Moueix and Castéja, two tough trading houses which are
quite difficult to circumvent today.
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The current system has nevertheless to take into consideration a
fast changing environment such as:
- Internet's e-trade business is a growing global inexpensive
way of purchasing wine, apart in the USA, where outdated
protectionist laws from prohibition times close the market to
external suppliers while providing fat margins of benefits to local
importers, distributors and retailers.
- The European retail industry has a huge
potential purchasing power
and has the habit
to squeeze margins at all levels. Their policy is to deal
directly with the wineries and to short circuit brokers and
traders. Given the wide international expansion of French and
European retail groups such as Carrefour or Auchan, it is easy
to understand that the retail channel will become increasingly
important in the future.
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With Bordeaux future's complex and rather opaque system, one
should not ignore a crucial actor of the wine scene: Robert
Parker, the world's most famous wine critic. Parker was a genius
in the early 80s for introducing his 100 points scoring scale which today has pretty
much become a worldwide wine rating standard. He also has the
great ability to write comprehensible notes in
his newsletter and wine guides. His recommendations
therefore progressively gained in
importance and now have a significant
impact on prices.
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Robert Parker's impact on the price of Bordeaux wines
The
Bordeaux wine industry, and more particularly the pragmatic
"Union des Grands Crus" (UGC) organization, has for
a long
time understood the importance of wine critics for their business.
Every year by the end of March, the narrow roads of the Gironde
region
are flooded by thousands of journalists running from one place
to another to taste barrel samples presented by hundreds of
chateaux, or to attend to official blind (or not) tastings,
organized by the UGC. During that period of the year, chateau
owners open wide their doors to the press while red carpets are
unrolled down the stairs to welcome the most influential critics.
But Robert Parker's final assessments only will
put the cherry
on the cake for the best rated properties.
With solid 95+ Parker scores, top estates take advantage of Parker's
ratings to easily
sell their product with a premium. Nevertheless, one should not
forget the following fundamental rule: if the traders are
obviously interested by the
wines' final quality, their primary interest
is in gaining a margin benefit. One could quote several examples of
"secondary" properties trying unsuccessfully to put upward price
pressure on traders after receiving a one time stellar score by
Robert Parker. Wine brokers usually do not let such trends
happen as they
already have to ensure increasingly high advances of
funds to the
top chateaux.
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The situation on 2005 Bordeaux reached an unprecedented climax
with the conjunction of 3 essential factors:
1. 2005 gathers exceptional grades with perfect sugar,
flavours and tannins levels
2. Bordeaux wine industry perfectly orchestrated the
rumour of an outstanding year. And journalists
were convinced to greet a "vintage of the
Century" long before they could taste the barrel samples
3. finally Robert Parker largly agreed on the exceptional
outlook of the vintage.
The situation on 2006 Bordeaux is much more trickier:
1. the Dollar has dramatically lost ground vs. the
Euro
2. the preliminary echoes from Bordeaux confirm that
quality is far from approaching 2005
3. traders and distributors have large volumes of
2005 and 2004 left
which strongly burden their cash-flow: Bordeaux
traders should seriously consider these issues
before pricing the 2006s.
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Think about consumers
For
2006, more than ever, selection will be crucial. One expects
owners, traders and importers to first consider the consumers'
current situation
as many have already spent a great deal of their wine budget in
purchasing 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2005.
Smart amateurs might have discovered the "pearls" of
recent overlooked years such as 2002 and
2004: and believe me, there are quite a
number of
beautiful wines available for relatively
moderate prices. At this point, each of us should do his
homework and follow the wise recommendations given at the time
by the most dedicated
wine critics.
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The profile of François Mauss
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François
Mauss is the creator and President since 1996 of the
The Grand Jury Europeen (GJE). The GJE is a collective of European
wine experts who regularly taste blind a maximum of 68 wines in two
daily 3-hour session, under strict legal control. |
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François is an expert in old wines and a impassioned amateur of the
finest Bordeaux and Bourgogne growths. He also distributes professional
and general data-processing software on wine and food. |
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It is a great pleasure for us to welcome François on board! |
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