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Chateau Palmer - Philippe Delfaut

Harvest
Chronicles at Château Palmer -
Margaux
Château
Palmer, September 8th, 2003
One thing is for sure, the
vintage is early - over 2 weeks earlier than last year at
Chateau
Palmer. This is the result of a warm, dry spring, then a scorching hot summer we will not forget easily! The end result is a very low
yield and the berries are small and thick-skinned. The way the grapes have ripened differs according to exposure and the orientation of the rows of vines with respect to the sun. These differences are more marked for the
Merlot than for the
Cabernet
Sauvignon, and even more so in the soils with deep
gravel than in areas with clay subsoil. The berries at
Chateau
Palmer which
were protected from the sun's rays have fine,
fruity and concentrated
aromas,
and those which were more exposed have more jammy flavours. We
are therefore having to sort the grapes especially meticulously,
sometimes with 2 collections from the plots.
Given the exceptional duration of the heat and sun, at
Chateau
Palmer we have to admit that we don't know how to expect the character of the wines to develop. The vinification
at Chateau
Palmer will
have to take the particular qualities of the grapes into account
and adapt the temperature, the pumping-over and the length of
maceration for each plot. A rigorous task requiring great care awaits us in order to ensure that this absolutely exceptional
vintage will be the best possible expression of our
terroir.
Château
Palmer September 10, 2003 - The Harvest Is Under Way!
On Monday we started picking the
Merlots with our local team of 35 harvesters, beginning with the young vines which were the earliest to ripen. These vines are also the ones which suffered the most in the unprecedented heat we had in August. Some plots,
at
Chateau
Palmer require two separate collections in order to isolate the best grapes from those which were burned by the sun. We have at our disposal a team from
Sauternes, who are used to this kind of harvesting and who are training the other harvesters in this unusual work for the
Medoc.
At Chateau
Palmer we think we will have finished harvesting the
Merlots by the end of the week but we haven't yet made any decision about the Cabernets. Before any
fermentation, the juice has a nice colour, a
ripe fruit flavour and a high
sugar content as in previous years. Only the
acidity is lower, although it isn't yet possible to predict the character of the wines. Very soon, that heady smell of
fermentation will fill the vatroom again. We can hardly wait to tap into the vats in a few days for our first
taste of the new
Chateau
Palmer
vintage!
Château
Palmer September 13, 2003 - The fermentation is in full swing...
We are now picking the best
Merlots under a magnificent sun. There's a really good atmosphere
at
Chateau
Palmer and the earlier aches and stiffness are now but a memory.
That wonderful smell of
fermentation is finally coming from the
Chateau
Palmer vat-room, giving our visitors a unique sensation they'll never forget once they've experienced it. The smell fills every nook and cranny, reminding us that the
fermentation is in full swing. One only has to look at the colour of the
must to realise that it is transforming into wine. We can hardly wait to satisfy our curiosity and
taste this new
vintage!
Château
Palmer September 17, 2003 - "What a difference this year between the merlot and cabernet..."
Since yesterday, at
Chateau
Palmer we've been picking the cabernets which are now
ripe, and the
Petit Verdot. The weather is on our side, with the sun being more and more generous every day after a cool night, helping the harvesting and the sorting of the grapes. We are therefore taking our time and only harvesting 7 hours a day. The harvesters are starting at 9 o'clock, after the morning dew has burned off. The cabernet and
Petit Verdot juices are extremely
rich, with more
freshness than the
Merlot. There's no need for two collections in these plots because the harder, thicker skins were a better defence against the summer heat.
What a difference this year between the
Merlot
and cabernet, whereas in 2002 it was hard to tell the two
varietals apart when tasting from the vats! Once again, Mother
Nature and the climate will determine the major characteristics of the
Chateau
Palmer 2003
vintage. May we be able to work with them in order to bring out its best aspects!
Château
Palmer September 20, 2003 - "The harvest is already over"
It's over already. Today at
Chateau
Palmer we are picking the last of the cabernets in the latest patches. Unusually, these outlying plots reached an exceptional maturity this year despite being so early in the dry weather, which is comforting given the effort we put into them every year. The principal attributes of the juices are much
freshness in the
taste, a strong colour and tannins with no crudeness. They are reminiscent of our best plots this year.
This is a good thing for the
Chateau
Palmer blending to come. Like last year, the
harvest conditions were beneficial to the full maturation of the wines, especially for the cabernet.
This year is the second earliest year at
Chateau
Palmer in the past 50 years (the
harvest started on Sept. 6th in 1989) and above all the hottest.
Time will tell if "early" means "successful".
Philippe Delfaut -
Chateau
Palmer
http://chateau-palmer.com/fr1
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